Saturday August 5, 1922

Lat: 0° 36’S. Lang 4° 56’E. 285 miles traveled.

I forgot to mention the Ladies’ Baptism ceremony yesterday. This approaches more to the church of England ceremony as the men’s did to the custom of the people called Baptists.

Each candidate was led up to Neptune’s representative and sprayed with a scent spray from the front and from behind – at the same moment the ships Captain (when no one of the candidates could suspect such a thing) neatly and deftly slipped a little lump of ice down their necks! He, looking perfectly innocent and seraphic when they turned round. It was most beautifully done and caused much amusement. 

We have had a perfect day today as regards weather. Blue sky, blue sea and a lovely cool breeze. In fact this evening it was too cold to sit in the wind so we sought the protected side pf the promenade deck to sit down.

Just before sunset we passed a small Spanish Island  - used as a convict settlement: Annobon Island, - which really consisted of one huge rock. The side towards us was sheer perpendicular rock towering hundreds of feet almost direct from the sea. The highest peak of the Island was lost in grey and white edged cloud. The whole picture was softened by blue haze to which detail was lost, leaving only the gaunt, rugged outline silhouetted against the sky.

Just to the right of the Island the sun was setting lighting up the sky with a wonderful path of glory. And the sun went down and the stars came out and another great sight revealed itself: Moonlight at sea.

The moon is two days from the full and nearly overhead. It is quite light enough to see by – but it is few who would to do that one would think (and yet hardly anyone comes from the saloon or cabins to see.)

The moon was a clear as clear can be. Fluffy clouds come over it now and again making the picture more wonderful. The white foam shows up brilliantly against the dark sea, but one can just make out that exquisite green edging to the waves – so clear by day but so softened and delicate by moonlight as to be almost mysterious.

I watched for quite a long time on a deserted deck – others tucked into bed: I had to use a Jaeger rug it was so fresh.

Byron was much influenced by water –

In his “Stanzas for Music” he is completely

Under its spell.

The be none of Beauty’s daughters with a

Magic like to thee,

And like music on the waters is thy sweet voice

To me.

When, as if its sound were causing the charmed

Ocean’s pausing,

The waves lie still and gleaming, and the lull’d

Winds seem dreaming.

And the midnight moon is weaving her bright

Chain o’er the deep,

Whose breast is gently heaving as an infant’s

Asleep:

So the spirit bows before thee to listen and

Adore thee

With a full but soft emotion like the swell of

Summer ocean.

Friday August 4, 1922

Lat 1° 59’ N. Long: 0° 57’ E. 325 Miles traveled.

Today we passed from the northern hemisphere to the southern and celebrated the crossing of the line with all the form and ceremony of maritime tradition inherited from the long unknown past. We had a day of tremendous fun and enjoyment:

 About 10.am King Neptune and his court appeared from somewhere and sat enthroned on the aft deck to preside over the initiation ceremonies for all the novices who had not passed this way hithertofore (with the exception of the Roman Catholic Priests, who looked on but would take no part). Pink or blue starch paste acted as soap which was freely administered prior to the Barbers operations with a huge (wooden) razor. The barbers chair was at the edge of a large sea water bath, 10 feet square and deep of warm water, into which the candidate was tipped as soon as the barber had finished. A ships hose added to the fun both of the candidate in the bath and the onlookers outside. Exit was made from the bath from the bath by which ever side was most convenient – but the water was so nice and the hose so refreshing that many delayed their exit for the purpose of prolonging their enjoyment.

 Great mirth was produced when some candidate tried to pull in with him some member of Neptune’s court!

The ships captain acted as a Sergeant-at-arms or MC to see no limits were overstepped – but there was nothing the most conservative person could take exception to. I could hardly say this mornings ceremony was restricted to the male novices! When all had been duly baptised, Neptune’s court proceeded to turn upon each other and carry through the ceremony on one another. Finally Neptune himself was literally thrown in – I suppose this was the door by which he returned to his domains!

“The Baptism of the Equator” is a very ancient custom. I have not been able to find any plausible account of its meaning or origin. It is practiced most especially on British ships or by British Officered ships and is essentially a British tradition. Beyond that, details are lost in antiquity.

The ships of this Belgian line always carried English Officers (one or more) until a few months ago and that explains the thoroughness of the Belgian ships company in carrying out the ritual. Besides there are practically always Englishmen travelling on these boats who enjoy maintaining a national tradition. A Portuguese passenger was at pains to impress on his fellow travelers that this sort of thing was never done on his nations boats!

A Belgian passenger approached on of the Roman Catholic Priests and said: “The Protestant Reverends don’t mind taking their share in all this; why don’t you?” “Ah” – said he “Ce n’est pas possible” and considered the question closed!  

In this connection it is interesting to note how British customs and procedure in practically all maritime matters has set the precedent for the worlds shipping. Not only in such lesser matters as crossing the line ceremonies, but in the way ships of almost every (certainly European) nation are run on the technical and administrative side. It is British customs and procedure nearly every time. I mentioned these boats had English Officers until quite recently and I understand the same is true of many other nations as well.

Of course there are “local variations” in the ritual, under consideration the details were slightly different from those practiced in the Royal Navy – but they are unimportant except to the scientific investigator – and as the beautiful certificate say with which each candidate was afterwards presented – “Our baptism is valid for all time and all places – with Neptune’s seal upon it, it must be so.

                Personally I felt very much at home – being as I was a Baptist in Bath!